Backpacking Pilipinas

My nine-year old sister, Carina, had to forgo her summer classes so she could visit us here in Manila. And while staying with me, I didn't want to pass up the opportunity to let her explore what the city could offer. Since she loves both History and Science, I thought of bringing her to some of the best museums around the metro. Along with Angel, we spent two Saturday afternoons digging on the wealth of information at The Mind Museum, Museo Pambata (Children’s Museum), and the National Museum.

Besides the National Museum, it was my first time visiting the other two so I was as excited as she was. I've always wanted to do museum-hopping, and there was no better way to do it than tagging along my ever-inquisitive little sister. It turned out to be a good bonding time for us!

The Mind Museum

Carina raved over the many science-based exhibits inside the museum - from the hair-raising static ball, the large table of elements, the planets and constellations shown on 3D movies, the giant T-Rex, human evolution, and even the outdoor playground.

We had full three hours exploring the museum. Upon entrance, we were welcomed by a robot named Aedi. I wasn't quite impressed at first, but he was good. The museum has almost 250 interactive exhibits in their five galleries: Life, Atom, Earth, Universe, and Technology, and we spent a good deal of time in each. I especially liked the 3D film shown in the Space Shell, a dome where the story of the universe is shown and the film was narrated by no less than Robert Redford! Also in the Earth Gallery and a must-see is the “Ang Simula,” a Filipino-made film depicting the history of the universe and relating it to our own Filipino history.

What I liked most about this museum is that it’s very interactive and cool. We got to touch and even got our hands “dirty” trying out some of the exhibits. Angel got his taste of the first printing press invented by Johannes Gutenberg (1440). He placed a piece of paper, pressed it in the wooden form, and rolled an ink over the block of letters. And wooooop, we got our own Gutenberg print!

We also enjoyed the educational outdoor playground called Science in the Park. It has the usual playground facilities, just with the touch of science in it.

Although the entrance fees come in hefty price, overall the experience inside this world-class science museum was worth it.

Just a heads up to all children going, don’t leave your school IDs, otherwise you will have to pay the full price (just like what we did for Carina).

Museum Hours:

Tuesdays- Sundays (closed Mondays)

9am-12nn/12nn-3pm/3pm-6pm

Additional time slots on Saturdays 6pm-9pm

Entrance Fees:

Adults -P600

*Children and Students (up to college)-P450

Public School students (up to college) -P150

Teachers -P150

All Day Pass (Enter any time, no three-hour maximum)- P750

*2Feet and below are free

Location/Contact Information:

JY Campos Park, 3rd Avenue, Bonifacio Global City

909 –MIND (6463)

Website:

http://www.themindmuseum.org/

Giant Butanding

T-Rex

My monster-like pre-historic image. hehe

The Gutenberg Press

Literally hair-raising static

Interactive games

Carina with Aedi

At the Science in the Park

Museo Pambata

After our mind-stimulating visit to the Mind Museum, Carina kept prodding me to go to the Museo Pambata in Manila. I caved in since I’ve heard really good stuff about this museum.

We were not disappointed when we got there. We were led to a historical journey dating back to the times of Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade, to the use of Tranvia along Escolta, to the display of antique household items and traditional dresses during the Spanish Era.

Also on display are artworks, musical instruments, and huge exhibits of the parts of the human body, jungle area, writer’s corner and the fun market complete with “panaderia”, pharmacy and barber shop.

One of the interesting things in the museum is the Moon Rock displayed in the 2^nd floor. It is an authentic rock from the moon, loaned to Museo Pambata by NASA (National Aeronautics and Space Administration).

I recommend parents visiting this place with their kids! It’s informative, interactive and entertaining.

Museum Hours:

8am-5pm (Tuesdays to Saturdays)

1pm-5pm (Sunday)

Closed on Mondays

Entrance Fee:

Adult and children - P100

Location/Contact Information:

Museo Pambata Foundation Inc.

Roxas Boulevard cor. South Drive, Manila (near the US Embassy)

523-1797/98, 536-0595

Website:

http://www.museopambata.org/

The museum entrance

The museum is housed in the historic Elks Club Building

Spanish Era traditional dresses

The Meralco Tranvia

Binondo Church

La Puerto del Sol was the only department store then in Manila, located at Escolta St.

old household items on display

A painting showing the traditional Filipino games

Inside a Barber Shop

A rock from the Moon

National Museum

An alternative way to learning and appreciating our own heritage and culture is through visiting our museums. And the National Museum is a must-visit for everyone. Upon entrance at the historic Old Legislative Building, I was impressed by the massive and intricately designed Neoclassical columns. It gave me a feel of how aesthetically and artistically inclined our old heritage buildings are (something that is almost lost nowadays).

The main gallery near the entrance holds one of the most important pieces in the museum – the amazing Spolarium. One of the volunteers informed us that it took 8 months for Juan Luna to complete the masterpiece.

Other galleries hold important artworks including paintings and sculptures by no less than our own art masters including Jose Rizal, Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo, Guillermo Tolentino, Fernando Amorsolo, among others. One of the interesting galleries in the 2^nd floor display bones from pre-historic times to present.

Museum Hours:

10am-5pm (Tuesdays to Sundays)

Entrance Fees:

Adult - P150

Senior Citizen- P120

Student - P50

Admission is FREE on SUNDAYs

Location:

Padre Burgos Drive, City of Manila (near Luneta Park and Intramuros)

Website:

http://www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph

The columns at the entrance

The Spolarium by Juan Luna (1884)

An old retablo

Dear Child by Simon Flores

Juan Luna

Portrait of a Gentleman and Portrait of a Lady by Guillermo Tolentino

Carina and Jose Rizal

Sculptures by Jose Rizal

the intricately designed ceiling

The old legislative hall

"So hindi kayo married?"
"Hindi po. Pero friends kami."
"Nasa policy kasi namin na hindi mag-accept ng hindi mag-asawa sa dorm."
"Ahhh, ok. Let's go."

*Exited the Alumni Hall -- stupefied, tired.*

They found themselves sitting on a concrete bench infront Siliman Hall near the Anthropology Museum. The early afternoon sun was tickling their skin, but the freshly mowed verdant grass offer some sort of comfort to their exhausted feet.

Siliman Hall

They couldn't get over the fact that they've just been booted out of a dorm, thinking how two legit travelling friends could not be allowed in. But after giving it some thought, they caved in to the idea that a policy is a policy. And that has to be respected.

Finding a place to stay in Dumaguete City was the least of their worries. They were on the look out for anything affordable and comfortable; a roof and a bed to settle their restless bones.

He was the stranger who joined her supposed solo sojourn. They ended up in Siquijor, and this overnight stay in Dumaguete was the final leg of that surreal weekend in Visayas.

They've decided to roam around Siliman University before heading out to look for a place to stay in. The first stop was the Anthropology Museum. After paying the P30 entrance fee, they've explored the museums themeselves. It was quite an interesting museum visit because of the exhibits inside. It has on display some earthen jars used during ancient times, burial jars with skulls on it, voodoo dolls with a pin on it, witchcraft concoctions and love potions from Siquijor. Picture-taking was not allowed in the ground and 2nd level so they didn't get to take home a souvenir photo of those eerie and interesting stuff.

Exhibits at the 3rd level (where they allow to take pictures)

The sprawling green green grass inside Siliman U

After they've wandered off Siliman U campus, they walked around the main roads of the city. Dumaguete is a tiny city with a lot of coffee shops around. It has quaint cafes in almost every corner which kinda gives an aura of ease and unhurried life of the people there. Especially along Rizal Boulevard, it has the quintessential provincial life scenes where some are taking afternoon strolls while some choose to bike or jog or just simply sit in the sea wall listening to the sound of the waves. Interestingly enough, Dumaguete is called the City of Gentle People.

Lazy afternoon at Rizal Boulevard

They found a place to stay overnight located across Rizal Boulevard. The Honeycomb Tourist Inn offers affordable rates with free breakfast. They loved the location since it's accessible to most places of interest in the city, and it's along the strip of restaurants and cafes.

It was already late in the afternoon when they've decided to haunt for the best places to eat around the city. A few steps from Honeycomb Inn, they stopped by the famous Sans Rival Cakes and Pastries to get a bite of its bestsellers sylvannas and sansrival. It was a real sugar treat!

Sans rival, sylvannas and coffee. Afternoon snacks couldn't get any better than this.

Sans Rival Cafe

From Sans Rival, a scoop of ice cream capped the afternoon delight. They walked towards Panda Ice Cream Hause, near Siliman University entrance, for their famous fried ice cream. It's basically an ice cream coated in deep-fried waffle. There wasn't much to its taste, but still a good thing to have tried it.

Fried ice cream!

For dinner, Hayahay Treehouse Bar is the place to be. The menu offers some really mouth-watering samples of seafoods. It also has a cozy and refreshing ambiance being that its fronting the sea.

Hayahay Treehouse Bar

From Hayahay, they scored the main plaza of Negros Oriental. Just when they thought the night life in Dumaguete ends at 7pm, they were caught in the middle of a crowded plaza as the province celebrated Buglasan Festival. The merriment was highlighted by a dance contest (wherein their favorite beats were Gangnam Style and Teach me How to Doggie), tiangge, exhibits from each municipality and a beer plaza. The festive air was definitely around that place that night.

The Provincial Capitol Building of Negros Oriental

Their exhausting day easily ended after grabbing a bottle of ice-cold San Miguel Beer in one of the stalls in the plaza.

The following morning, they thought of exploring further other landmarks in the city. From Rizal Boulevard, they walked a few blocks going to St. Catherine of Alexandria Cathedral and the historic Dumaguete Belfry (the oldest in the province). It is said that this belfry was used by inhabitants to forewarn the townspeople of impending attacks of marauders.

St. Catherine Cathedral

Dumaguete Belfry

Just across the cathedral is the city plaza where the tourism office is located. From the plaza, they rode a trike to get to the sinking ship near the Bell Church. This half-sunken cargo ship capsized off the coast of Dumaguete during the Tropical Storm Sendong. For some reason, its wreck has become one of the tourist attractions since then.

The park

half-sunken cargo ship

Bell Church

After touring the city, they had an early lunch back at Sans Rival since she had an early afternoon flight back to Manila. His flight will follow two hours after. The fleeting weekend they spent in Siquijor and Dumaguete will linger on for a long while. But there was an unspoken uncertainty as to whether they'd still have the same tight bonding once they get back to Manila.

After exchanging thank yous for the beautiful weekend, she said goodbye and left him in that corner along Rizal Boulevard -- alone. As the trike drove towards the airport, and as she looked back to his receding figure in that corner, she only had one thing in mind. Will she still see him again?

Marinduque, an island tucked in the geographic center of the Philippines, was a revelation to me. From the charming Spanish-old houses lined in its laid-back towns, to its gentle coastline, and its numerous eco-tourism destinations, travelers need not wait for the Lenten season to enjoy this place. There are tons of reasons to go and visit this heart-shaped island besides going for Moriones Festival. It has a good balance of mountain and ocean gems waiting to be explored.

My friend and I arrived in Marinduque on a crisp and cold early February morning. It was Valentine’s weekend and instead of heading to the lovers-filled mega malls in Manila, we opted to go off-beat to find our peace and quiet. And we found just exactly what we were looking for. We seemed to have the whole island to ourselves alone – as tourists.

The clean and muted streets of Boac

First on our agenda was to find a place to stay in. As we were roaming the streets, we found Boac Hotel which is conveniently located near Boac Cathedral, Pugutan Site and Kusina sa Plaza. The rooms are a bit small but comfortable enough for an overnight stay. It also houses Cafe Ma’ Mita which offers affordable meals. Adjacent to it is a souvenir shop where I bought my usual-take-home ref magnet and the famous pasalubong from the province – Rejano’s uraro cookies (arrowroot)

We decided not to hire a trike and opted to explore the town on foot. In less than two hours, we were done walking around. We passed by Boac Cathedral, an earthquake-baroque architecture still standing tall in that small town. I especially liked its red-bricked facade, high-ceiling interiors, and the golden retablo. On the rear side of the church, near the Bishop's Palace, we got a bird’s eye view of the whole town.

Boac Cathedral

The golden retablo inside Boac Cathedral

Massive stone walls protecting the church

Marinduque's capital town, Boac, has a certain charm in itself. While we were lazily walking around its muted streets, I was telling my friend how it strongly resembles the heritage walk we did along the old Spanish houses in Vigan, Ilocos Sur – just without the noisy tourists and the busy peddlers around. We were like transported to some bygone era.

Cafe at Casa de Don Emilio

Kari Kari (the black one) is one of the local dishes in Marinduque

Casa de Don Emilio

Typical houses lined along the streets of Boac

One of my favorite memories of that weekend in Marinduque was the dinner we had at Casa de Emilio, a restaurant located at the second floor of Kusina sa Plaza (just across Marinduque Museum). We ordered the province specialty Kari Kari which basically tasted like Dinuguan for me. I love the ambiance and the classic feel inside that ancestral house. They have on display some antiques and it somehow left me thinking how it must have been living in that grand house during its heydays.

One thing that I liked about Marinduque is the fact that it has remained fast-food-chain-and-malls-free. I really appreciate going to places without these familiar business chains that already crowd the metro where I’m from. It's nice having a break from the fat bee and the smiling clown that abounds Manila. Places devoid of these allow me to enjoy the local dishes and make me want to buy pasalubong (souvenir) from local sellers.

There are eateries and clean carenderias available for quick meals in Boac. There are also a number of grocery stores around the town proper.

The people of Marinduque speaks Tagalog and some are well conversant in English so talking to locals was not a problem at all. Those we've met during the trip were kind and helpful to us. We had no issues asking for directions or any problems with dishonest trike drivers.

Kids from Buenavista

A boy from Gasan

The following day, we woke up to a clear morning in Boac. And since it was a Sunday we heard the early morning mass at the Cathedral. We were lucky to have chanced up on the Diocese’s Bishop celebrating the mass. He delivered a really long sermon that day. One of the things I like with backpacking Pilipinas is that whenever I hear mass from local churches, I also draw local perspectives from the homily of priests from each place.

After breakfast, we packed our bags and headed to our next destination—Gasan, a town about an hour away from Boac. Almost lunchtime, we made it to Barangay Pinggan in Gasan, the drop-off point for our island hopping adventure to Tres Reyes Islands. We hired a motorized boat to take us to these three islands—Gaspar, Melchor, and Baltazar. Motorboat rent: P700.

With colorful sea shells at Gasan Island

Sunset in Gasan

Turquoise-colored waters

The first island we've reached was Gaspar Island. I liked the enticing clear blue-green water which I saw as ideal for snorkeling. As the boat wades along, we saw birds gliding above the water and passing through the thick green mountain of the island.

We got to as far as Melchor Island. But due to nasty waves as we were moving towards Baltazar Island, our boatman decided not to push further as it may endanger our safety. So we headed back to Gaspar Island and spent a good one hour bumming in one of its narrow sand strips.

Off to my secret silent spot

As the boat waded further, we saw beautiful rock formations ashore. The boatman informed us where the ceramics, jars and artifacts from the pre-Hispanic shipwreck was said to have been found. We were told that some of the wares were looted and those salvaged items are now found in Marinduque Museum.

After island-hopping, we found ourselves in front Blue Castle Beach Resort. The resort owner, Sir Ray, gave us a warm welcome. He was very hands-on and even offered us a free tour to Gasan’s neighboring town, Buenavista. Aboard his top-down trike, we had an impromptu sunset drive to Buenavista and had a quick dip at Malbog Sulphur Hot Spring. Dinnertime, they served us a hearty meal and we had a long talk with him about his visions for the development of tourism in Marinduque. I really hope that his good vision for the province will materialize someday.

The amazing day was capped by soaking in the wide clear pool at the resort. Although its beach front has the grayish sand which is typical in Marinduque, Blue Castle Beach Resort is definitely a place I’d recommend if in case you get around Gasan.

The very inviting pool at Blue Castle Beach Resort

Quick dip at Malbog Sulphur Hot Spring

The following day, we raced back to Gasan town proper to visit the church. Although its building is remarkably new, it was said that this church is home to 19^th-century bonze bells. There were a few renovations being done while we were there but overall, the one that really caught my attention in the interiors of the church were the massive yellow fan-like designs etched on its ceilings.

Gasan Church

Interior of Gasan Church

From the church, we searched for the oldest house in Gasan. Among the many old houses in that town, that ancestral house can’t be overlooked easily since it has a huge Historical Site marker in front of it. I would have wanted to peek inside but no one seemed inside the house at the time we were there.

In front the oldest house in Gasan

Before heading back to Balanacan Port, we made sure to stop by Marinduque Museum. It houses archeological artifacts, and showcases historical and cultural icons of the province. I've learned a lot about Moriones Festival and the characters joining the Pugutan.

Most of the collections inside the museum are the jars and plates excavated underwater from the remnants of a pre-Hispanic Chinese vessel.

Marinduque Museum marker

On display at Boac Marinduque

Excavated plates at Marinduque Museum

Jars from the sunken Chinese vessel circa pre-hispanic time

Morions at Marinduque Museum

Inside Marinduque Museum

Marinduque Museum

It was almost late afternoon when we traveled from Boac to Balanacan Port. From the seaport, I got to see a fiery sun making its way to the horizon. The afternoon sunset gave me sense of warmth. Tired bones notwithstanding, I felt at peace inside.

Magnificent sunset at Balanacan Port

That weekend in Marinduque was one that I would want to go to my archives labelled as “My favorite Travels.” It was a beautiful Valentine's weekend that we hope we get to do again someday.

How did we get there:

We took the JAC Liner Bus (P850) - Kamias Road Terminal, Quezon City to Dalahican Port, Lucena City (approximate travel time: 3 hours), RoRo ride from Dalahican Port, Lucena City to Cawit Port, Boac, Marinduque (average travel time: 3-4 hours).

*Thank you, Anchi! :)*

I consider Albay as my second home in Bicol. Having lived there for four years, I've come to love everything about it -- the people, food, Legazpi-Daraga jeepney rides, the dialect, and of course, Mayon Volcano. Almost every trip to Bicol is never complete without a quick stopover to this province. And just like the previous visits, every stop is a delight.

The majestic Mayon Volcano

Albay is one of the six provinces in Bicol. It can be reached via 8-10 hours land trip aboard a bus (most buses are stationed at terminals in Cubao and Pasay) or private car; 10-12 hours via PNR Bicol Express Train; or one hour plane ride from Manila (Cebu Pacific, AirPhil, PAL).

Upon arrival in Albay, visitors are in for a visual treat of the ubiquitous Mayon Volcano. This world-famous conical-shaped volcano is the crowning glory of the province, and is visible from nearly all cities and towns in Albay. Having erupted 48 times in the past 400 years, it is considered as one of the most active and most dangerous volcanoes in the country. But despite sustaining some visible damage from previous eruptions, it has retained its almost perfect symmetry even to these days.

A trip to Albay is never complete without indulging in the local flavors of Bicol. Our region is known for our spicy and coconut cream-based cuisines. And most of these traditional dishes can be tried out in Albay.

Bicol Express (not the train), a dish with “sili” or peppers and chunks of pork cooked in coconut cream, is probably one of the most popular and favorite dishes in Bicol. It is said to have gotten its name from the train that plies the Manila to Bicol route. Traditionally cooked taro leaves with “sili” and coconut cream called Laing or Pinangat is another must-try dish in Bicol. And of course, one must not leave Bicol without trying or buying some “pasalubong” packs of the sweet pili nut candies.

Laing

Some of the restaurants to check out while in Albay are: DJC for its good-old favorite Halo-halo (cheese, finely shaven ice, sago, lecheflan, milk, ube and sweetened banana); Biggs Diner, a home-grown fast-food chain; Small Talk Cafe, a quaint little restaurant in Legazpi known for its fusion dishes like Sili Shake, Pili Pie, Bicol Express Pasta and Pasta Laing; Laing restaurants in Camalig to try out some of the best-tasting Laing in the province.

Fusion ice cream available at Colonial Grill (Legazpi). Flavors available are pili, sili and tinutong.

For a day trip, you may opt to take public transport (jeepney and trikes are the most common mode of transportation) or rent a car to get around to some of the best spots in this province. Some of the most popular destinations are:

Cagsawa Ruins (Daraga/ Entrance fee:P10)- Probably one of the most famous faces of Albay is immortalized in some postcards bearing the image of Mayon on the background of Cagsawa Ruins. Aside from being known as a major tourist destination in Albay and in the country, this place is also considered symbolic to the dangers of living near Mayon. On February 14, 1814, some 1200 people sought refuge inside this Franciscan Church only to have lost their lives from what is considered the most destructive eruption of Mayon yet. What remains today of that devastating eruption is the belltower and a part of the church.

Lignon Hill (Legazpi- Entrance:P20)- There is a view deck on top of this 156-meter high hill that offers an unobstructed view of Mayon and a 360 degrees panoramic view of Legazpi and its neighboring towns. Sunrise or sunset is the best time to ascend the hill since the air is already cool. Some other activities available at the hill are the 320-meter zipline, paintball, hiking and biking.

Busay Falls (Malilipot). If you’re looking for a refreshing dip and a good hike on a cool summer day, head to this famous cascade in Albay. It offers a relaxing ambiance, thanks to the gentle sound of the falling cascade and the forest that surrounds falls. Cottages are readily available near the falls ideal for day trips. It is advisable to go there during summer as the dirt road going there gets muddy during the rainy season.

Church of San Juan Bautista (Tabaco City). This National Landmark is considered as one of the most impressive structures in Albay. Its construction started in 1864 and was completed in 1879. Aside from its massive belfry and ancient interiors, what makes this church very interesting are the stones that were used to build it bear distinct marks of the Masons.

Church of Nuestra Señora de la Porteria/Our Lady of the Gate (Daraga). This four-century church offers one of the most panoramic views of Mayon Volcano as it sits atop a hill in Daraga. It was established in 1773 by a group of Franciscan Priests. Made mostly of volcanic stones, its massive structure with belfry on one side and convent on the other side was built based on a Baroque structure with Spanish influence. In 2007, it was declared as a National Historical Site and the marker as a National Cultural Treasure can be found at the facade.

Shopping for souvenirs. If you want to take home a piece of Bicol with you, the best places to get your pasalubong is at Central Terminal in Legazpi and Cagsawa Ruins in Camalig. These places have cluster of souvenir shops that offer various items such as fine handicrafts, sweet Pili nut delicacies, postcards, t-shirts, keychain and ref-magnets, and some abaca products which includes bags, slippers/sandals and home decorations.

Bicolanos are warm and kind people so one could expect smiles and greetings like “Dios maray na aldaw” or “pleasant day” from the locals. Some words or phrases that would help you while in Albay are Dios mabalos (thank you), Magayon(beautiful), and Gurano tabi ini? (how much is this?).

Jack Johnson was beating his usual mellow song in the car stereo as we were speeding off smoothly along the panoramic North Luzon Expressway. It was a beautiful Saturday morning of June, and I was off to La Union for a yoga and surf weekend with 10 fellow travel bloggers.

After nearly six hours rolling off from Manila, we reached our destination. San Juan, a second class municipality in the province of La Union is considered to be the Surfing Capital of Northern Philippines. It is known as a mecca for intermediate surfers, mostly coming from Manila and nearby provinces, especially during its two surfing seasons -- July to October and November to March.

It was my second time in San Juan and I was giddy for a repeat of my more-than-pleasant trip there last January. The beach may have baby waves compared to other surfing spots in the country, but I'll always remember the good vibes and friendly people I've met there. I was excited to surf, do a bit of yoga and relax!

The common area

One of the two open-air dormitories

The walls and the bed bunks. Photo courtesy: The Circle Hostel La Union

We were booked for an overnight stay at The Circle Hostel La Union, an eco-hostel that blends well with the surf and beach vibes in San Juan.

Unlike the conventional closed bedrooms offered by other hotels, The Circle Hostel has two open-air dormitory buildings with single beds bunks that can go up to 3 levels high! :) They also have hammock spaces, a tree house, and one common area ideal for sleeping, yoga and group activities.

The colorful pathways

An overnight stay costs P400/head which covers a bed bunk with a mosquito net, linen and a privacy curtain; P300/head for hammock; and P150/head for day trip.

One of the things that caught my attention the moment I stepped in was the colorful graffiti all over the place. As I have later on known, visitors are encouraged to express their thoughts and unleash their artsy self by hand painting it on their choice surface, anywhere within the hostel. I noticed that thoughts about surf and travel were the two obvious favorites of their visitors.

Share your thoughts, paint it!

I like its business tagline "There are no strangers." Raf, one of the owners, believes that part of traveling is to make friends, so they have designed the hostel in a way ideal for maximum interaction among its visitors. The common area, for example, could be a good place for drinking games! Solo backpackers who are up to meeting new friends will definitely enjoy this place. :)

It may have been unfortunate that the waves hadn't picked up while we were there, and too sadly, we had to forego surfing. But the overall experience of staying in a cool open-air hostel, food trip to some nice restaurants around La Union ( Urbiztondo Grill, Thunderbird Resorts, Kahuna Beach Resort and Spa), and snorkeling (Abel's Tours) and yoga session with fellow travel bloggers was more than enough to brand that weekend as SWELL!!

The weekend gang! Photo by Kara Santos of Travel Up!

Things to remember while at The Circle Hostel

1. Services and facilities available at The Circle Hostel are free wifi, lockers (please bring own padlock), shower area (bring your own towel).

2. They do not have a restaurant inside the hostel so it's advisable to bring your own food (coffee, chips, bread). Although there is a restaurant a few meters away, Urbiztondo Grill, they offer good-tasting "lutong-bahay" foods.

3. Don't forget to bring your own toiletries (shampoo, soap) as there are no nearby stores in the area. Bring an insect repellent, too!

4. Bring rash guards or anti-jellyfish SPF especially during jellyfish season. I hope The Circle Hostel could also provide vinegar in case of jelly fish sting. :)

Address: Urbiztondo,San Juan,La Union

Website: www.launion.thecirclehostel.com

Phone: 0917-832-6253

How to get to The Circle Hostel, La Union:

Take a bus bound for Laoag, Vigan, Abra or Ilocos Sur. Buses: Genesis, Partas, Dominion, Fariñas, Viron and Florida

Ask the driver to drop you off at San Juan Surf Resort, San Fernando, La Union. Across the resort, you'll see Urbiztondo Grill. Take the access road on the right of Urbiztondo Grill, it will lead you to The Circle.

Out to surf

Aside from being home to the prime surfing spot in Northern Luzon, La Union also prides with a number of restaurants that will definitely feed your appetite after hours of being out in the sea riding the waves. Whether choose to surf or simply lounge in the fine gray sand of San Juan, La Union, you'll be in for a tummy treat as you go for a gastronomic trip from high-end to humble restaurants.

In my recent trip to La Union with fellow travel bloggers, I had the chance to visit some of the restaurants around, thanks to Lois and Raf of the The Circle Hostel.

Urbiztondo Grill

Located right along the main highway at Urbiztondo, San Juan, dining here is definitely a treat especially those up for tasty local dishes. Their kare-kare is a must-try! I love it!

Thunderbird Resorts

A magnificent sunset and ocean view, charming villas and great buffet table, everything around Thunderbird Resorts spells luxury. I enjoyed our dinner as we were served a good selection of local and foreign dishes. My eyes drooled and were fixed on the sushi section!

Albeit a short visit, I'd say this Santorini-inspired resort is a place I would want to go back to and maybe stay a bit longer in the future (if my finances permits).

Contact: www.thunderbirdresortslaunion.com

Kahuna Beach Resort and Spa

Kahuna Beach Resort and Spa offers the best advantage to those up for surfing in San Juan. It's conveniently located right across the spot where the surfing actions happen. Whether you choose to relax in one of their cabanas or have a sumptuous dinner after a day of surf, Kahuna delivers.

Unfortunately we didn't get to surf as waves hadn't picked up while we were there. But I simply enjoyed the view of the tamed and gentle sea from Kahuna.

Contact: www.kahunaresort.com

I keep a list of "Must-Visit Places in Mindanao" since I started my 80 before 30 challenge. But I decided to put off exploring this region until Luzon and Visayas provinces are all done. Now that I'm on my final leg of the backpacking challenge, it's such an amazing feeling to be finally ticking off some of my dream destinations in Mindanao, one beautiful place at a time.

The province of Surigao del Sur has recently been included in the tourist trail because of the natural wonders that are lying still and almost hidden in its off-the-beaten mountains. Two remarkable sights that Anchi and I have seen lately are Hinatuan's Enchanted River and Bislig City's Tinuy-an Falls.

Stunning hues of Enchanted River

When a Facebook friend posted a picture of a "river" with a disclaimer that he didn't photoshop or post-process the result, I was like "Are you kidding me?! The colors are so vibrant to be true!" I did my own research, and found the results all the same. Indeed, the hues are stunning. Then I decided that I should see that place myself, at all cost!

And we finally met last June. It was a short, but still a magical encounter. I was literally river-struck. :)

We arrived at Enchanted River after an agonizing five hour ride from Davao City to Surigao del Sur ( The depressing van ride deserves another blog post, but I'll not get into details here to not spoil anything).

From Mangagoy, Bislig City, Surigao del Sur, we hired a habal-habal (good for 3) to take us to Enchanted River and Tinuy-an falls. The driver asked for P1,000, which I thought at first was a rip off but not up until I realized how far the destinations were. It was already late in the afternoon so we decided to cave in. Later I realized the fare was fair enough.

Our first stop was Enchanted River.

Definitely not post-processed

My river-struck smile

The river that looks more like a sea in the middle of a forest

I've wondered how the river came to be called “Enchanted,” and I found some interesting details online. Local stories have it that there are spirits guarding the place so swimming after dark is being restricted. There was also an article I stumbled upon that says Modesto Farolan, a prewar manager of the Madrigal-owned Port Lamon Lumber Co., wrote a poem entitled "Rio Encantado" and gave it to his local sweetheart. Then eventually, the locals adopted the title.

On a different note, I also learned that the rich blue color of the water is because of the mixture of fresh and saltwater from Hinatuan Bay. So that somehow debunks those local legends about fairies and elves guarding the river.

From Mangagoy, it took almost 45 minutes before we reached Hinatuan. From the highway junction, we took a 15-minute bumpy ride along a dirt road leading to Barangay Talisay (bordering Barangay Cambatong), where Enchanted River is located.

Since it was a holiday, I wasn't very surprised to see the place packed with tourists. From the main entrance, we walked a few meters going to the swimming area. And lo and behold, the river was how I imagined it to be. It looks more like a sea in the middle of a forest.

There were a few people enjoying the clear blue river when we arrived. Those who were not so brave to swim its 80-meter deep water had to wear a life jacket and some opted to stay in the shallow part. At first it looks enticing for me, but the thought of its unfathomable depth is too much for me so I opted to just enjoy the scene and let the beauty all in.

From the concrete viewing area close to the river, we could see variety of colorful fishes. Yes, it was that clear, you don't need to scuba dive to see the fishes! There was a signage that says tourists can arrange to feed the fishes between 12 noon to 1 p.m. and a special feeding is also allowed at 3 p.m.

The blue-tinted river

Tourists enjoying a refreshing afternoon swim

The cottages near the river

We realized we'd be late on the road so we decided not to swim. The sight of the clear and water-tinted blue river was good enough for us. After taking a few photos, we moved on to our next destination -- to the magestic Tinuy-an Falls.

Magestic Tinuy-an Falls

It was almost sundown and our habal-habal driver, Roger, was pressing hard on the motorcycle. We were speeding off very fast that I almost fell off my seat. After about an hour, we reached Tinuy-an Falls.

The three-tiered cascading waterfalls are about 95 m wide and 55 metres (180 ft) high. Tinuy-an is also called the Niagara Falls of the Philippines, and is said to be one of the widest waterfalls in the country.

We arrived past 5p.m. and we were the only visitors in the area. After paying the entrance fee, we walked the wooden view deck and closer to the second cascade which stands mightily in front of us.

Standing tall in the presence of the widest waterfalls in the Philippines

The white water curtain in the lowest tier

the wooden boardwalk that also serves as a viewing deck

serene and green

Just the refreshing view of its water curtain and the calming constant sound of the plunge was a good way to end our long and tiring day discovering an enchanting river and chasing beautiful waterfalls.

Travel Guide:

1. How to get to Bislig City, Surigao del Sur (Courtesy: www.bislig.gov.ph)

Air Travel:

From Manila or Cebu to Davao City as transit point, Philippines Airlines, Cebu Pacific and Air Philippines ply the Manila-Davao-Manila (Aprox. 1-1/2 hours travel time) and Cebu-Davao-Cebu (Approx. 45 minutes travel time) several trips daily. From Davao airport, take a taxi to the Ecoland Bus Terminal where air-conditioned vans may be hired for a 5-hour trip to Bislig City at reasonable rates. Regular trips of Bachelor Express aircon and non-aircon buses also ply the Davao-Bislig route as early as 2:00 a.m. daily.

Vans going to Mangagoy (Bislig City) are also available at Gaisano Mall, P300.

From Manila or Cebu to Butuan City as transit point. Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific ply these routes three times a week. From the airport, take a cab to the City Bus Terminal where air conditioned vans may be hired for a 3-hour trip to Bislig City at reasonable rates. Regular trips of Bachelor Express air-con and non-aircon buses also ply the Butuan route as early as 2:00 a.m. daily.

Sea Travel:

Inter-island vessels like the Super-Ferry and Sulpicio Line ply the Manila-Butuan or Cebu-Butuan routes on regular schedules with Nasipit Port as transit point. Air-con vans are available at the wharf or take a jeepney to the city terminal for the regular bus trips to Bislig.

From Bislig, you can rent a habal-habal going to Tinuy-an Falls and Enchanted River.

2. Entrance Fee

Enchanted River - P30- adult, P5- kids 4ft below.

Tinuy-An Falls - P50 - adult, FREE - children aging 7 and below.

3. Schedule

Enchanted River - open - 6 a.m., close -5 p.m.
Tinuy-an Falls - open whole day.

4. Facilities

Enchanted River - there are tables and cottages available for rent within the area.

Tinuy-an Falls- cottages for rent (P300-P1000), life jacket, tables with tents and chairs, rubber raft are available.

5. Accommodation at Bislig City (Courtesy: www.bislig.gov.ph)

Contact Person	Name of Establishment	Type/Class	Rooms / Rate per rooms
Contact Person	Name of Establishment	Type/Class	Aircon	Without Aircon
Dolores G. Marcojos Tel.(086)853-3079 Fax (086)853-4144	Paper Country Inn	Hotel Standard	4 suite P1,750 4 deluxe P1,100 Standard P 900 Economy P 600
Gail Eleazar Tel.(086)853	Pensionne La Salle	Pension	Twinbed aircon w/ hot and cold shower	3 non-aircon P350 1 single 2 double
Riza Sabino Tel. (086) 628-2105 0910-8395553	Florland Ventures		4 twinbed, 4 triple beds, 5 quadruple sharing 2 duplex/apartelle P1,000 each
Wilfredo Babano Tel. (086)853-1297	Casa Babano	Inn	2 std. double P700, 1 std. Triple P900	8 single bed with common CR
Eufemia Melasa Tel. (086)853-2016	St. Francis Pension House	Lodging Pension	1 standard family room P1,000, 4 economy P500	9 single P200 2 double 200
Anne Tajale Tel. (086)853-1510	Sheilah’s Pension House	Lodging	2 family P550 3 double P450, 2 single P350, 1 apartelle P1,000	7 double P200 7 single P200
Fritzie Lee T. Sia	Sleep Inn	Lodging		3 single and 12 double P150/pax
Jesica Gomilao Cel#09125130683	Yolanda Inn	Lodging	3 double bed P600-P500	2 double P250-P300
Lucy A. Ramacula Cell# (086) 628-2369	Violy’s Pension House and Restaurant	Lodging	2 single bed w/ CR-P350 1 double bed w/ CR, hot & Cold Shower & TV- P600 1 twin bed w/ CR, Hot or Cold shower & TV – P700	3 single bed w/ CR 1 double bed w/ CR

NOTE: Please keep these two amazing places clean at all times! Thank you! :)

*The photos used in this blog were taken from my iPhone. Hence, the quality. :)*

When I started with backpacking Pilipinas three years ago, collecting travel souvenirs was not in my must-do list. I'd randomly buy some keepsakes - like trinkets for my office mates or t-shirt for my siblings - but I wasn't too obsessed hoarding something for myself. I'm not overjoyed by the idea of having to haggle to find budget-friendly shirts or having to wade through flock of tourists going on a madness sale over tiny cute souvenirs (like the busy shops in Baguio and Boracay). Oh well, I guess I was a bit impatient back then.

It was only two years ago when I thought of how it would be nice to bring home small memento of each place I go to. I realized how privileged I am to have actually been to those off- the-beaten roads and that it may take a long time for me to return. It thought it would be necessary to find something to remember the place by.

Being that I keep myself light when on the road, I decided to just limit my collection to some tiny and useful treasures. When buying a souvenir, I also factor in the advocacy to promote local and indigenous products. So that being said, let's keep on supporting local products!

Here are some of my favorites:

1. Ref Magnet

One day, I brought home a souvenir magnet and put it in my clean and clear ref door. It looked proud to have finally found a place in my home. As I stared on it, I decided on something that I'll do for the rest of my travel years. I'll fill that empty space with the beautiful ref magnets from the Philippines and beyond. Those pretty pictures will help me remember the experiences from each spot I've been too.

The happy crowd on my ref

2. T-shirt

Aside from ref magnets, I also started collecting shirts for myself. I find this useful especially when I'm running out of something to wear during a trip, and these shirts always come to the rescue.

I'm not a fan shopping at the mall, and I realize that most of the newer stuff in my closet are shirts from my recent trips. So If you see me around, I might probably be donned in my favorite take-home shirts from Batanes, Siargao, Palawan, Davao, and La Union.

Some of my favorite shirts

3. Shawl/Sarong

I bought a nicely-printed sarong when I went to Bali last year, and ever since then, it has become a regular resident of my backpack. I find it very useful especially when on a long night trip in a bus or sleeping in a terminal or a boat.

I easily fall for fabrics with colorful and artsy patterns. Aside from sarong, I also like collecting shawl which comes in handy when taking a habal-habal ride on a dusty road and while braving the midday sun.

Shawls and Sarongs are good to collect because these are also travel essentials

4. Local Handicraft

When I'm a bit lucky to have extra money, I make sure to buy a handicraft which is uniquely manufactured from that place. What's best about it is it helps (at least financially) the local people, too. Some of my take-aways from trips recently are marble item from Romblon and a purse woven in Benguet.

Native bags from Bohol, guitar from Cebu, marble dolphin from Romblon,
wooden anito from Batad

5. Food

It's like a tradition. My family's idea of pasalubong is always about food. Anywhere in the Philippines, they expect me to bring home something to devour, which I'm always too willing to oblige.

Some of my favorite food pasalubong around the country are: butter scotch and piaya from Bacolod, napoleones from Iloilo, pastel from Camiguin, Shamrock otap, danggit and lechon from Cebu, ube and strawberry jam from Baguio, durian candies from Davao, pilinuts from Bicol, latik from Catanduanes, pastillas de leche from Masbate, sylvannas and sans rival from Dumaguete, and chocolate moron from Tacloban.

Some of our favorite pasalubongs from around the Philippines

Tell me, what are your favorite souvenirs? :)

_________________________________________________________________

This is my entry to Pinoy Travel Bloggers' Blog Carnival for July 2013. With the theme "Memorable Travel Souvenirs, Objects and Mementoes," Jun Baris of www.galangpusa.wordpress.com hosts this edition of the blog carnival.

Visit Estan Cabigas' Langyaw.com to see the archive of Pinoy Travel Bloggers' Blog Carnival! :)

I’m having a serious case of writer’s block today. I'm eternally stuck in the first paragraph that I've been so achingly composing for about an hour now. I want to scold myself because I shouldn't be having this dilemma especially that I’m writing about one of my best and favorite travels this year – trip to Apo Reef.

How could I not write about my first 50 feet dive experience? How could I not weave words to describe how it was to chase sea turtles and a manta ray, or to spot a shark, or to swim alongside colorful and overly cute fishes, or to see a beautiful underwater garden?

Maybe I’m not in the mood to write, but I’m definitely not in the mood to be selfish. :) And because there are some things that are better seen than read, I’ll share here some of the pictures I took while exploring the magnificent Apo Reef. These wealth of still photos are but snap shots of the massive underwater wonder of the entire reef. Believe me, there's a lot more down there! For now, I hope the pictures could somehow suffice your curiosity.

I’ll share my prose in the coming days!

Special thanks to my friend Muy for allowing me to borrow her camera during my dive and to Angel for capturing some of the most adorable underwater photos. I wish I'm a marine biologist or scientist so I could properly identify -- well at least scientifically -- all the species I saw down under. :)

This school of fish does not follow any traffic rules

Nemo's lair

They get rowdy down there sometimes

Shark spotted!!!

Underwater garden

starfish

A sea turtle at Pandan Island

A rare and beautiful capture of a sea turtle swimming with a yellow fish in an almost subliminal way

The manta ray

My first dive documented. :)

I was caught off-guard when my friend told me that we’ll go camping in Apo Reef. I was unprepared for a tent accommodation since I thought we would just go snorkeling and beach bumming there. Who goes beach camping late November, anyway? But since I didn't do my own research about our destination, I conceded. The night before our scheduled flight to Occidental Mindoro, I had to crazily leave out some stuff in my backpack that does not qualify as a “camping essential.”

Little did I know that despite joining in a bit unprepared, this trip with my fellow kaladkarins Janet, Ciel, Muy, Lira, Marvs and Angel would rank high among my favorite travels this year.

Break of dawn at Sablayan Sea Port

The early morning sun was beating down lightly as we arrived at San Jose, Occidental Mindoro. Since it was just in time for breakfast, we managed to snag a quick fix of good-old coffee and tapsi meals in a carenderia near the terminal. We all know that it was going to be a long day so we had to prepare ourselves up well. After breakfast, we hailed a trike to drive us to the nearest bus terminal going to Sablayan. The bus we got into was Manila-bound but we were told that we would be dropped off at Sablayan. After about an hour waiting for the bus to fill up passengers, we started rolling along the dirt rough road of Occidental Mindoro.

The bus ride from San Jose to Sablayan was almost agonizingly painful. I find it very appalling to see a major thoroughfare left in such destitute state. I hope the LGU takes an immediate action to make better of the impoverished road system in the province.

After two hours, we safely made it to Sablayan. We headed straight to the town tourism office to register and pay dues for boat rental and guides. It was decided that the trip to Apo Reef will have to be put off for the next day so that we could prepare and buy all the provisions we would need in the island, and to give some more time to see what this small town has to offer.

The infectious smiles of the children of Mindoro

Late afternoon, we found ourselves exploring the town proper. Here’s a list of places to see around:

Lumang Simbahan (Old Church)– a 16^thcentury church found at the foot of the centennial forest. Even until now regular masses are still being heard there.

Presing Park – this place offers a good sunset view and a panoramic view of the town and its neighbouring islands. We also saw a watch tower, a lighthouse and an ancient canon there. Restroom and cottages are available within the park.

Sabang River Hanging bridge

Sablayan Museum- houses a collection of historical, cultural and biological artifacts donated by the people of Sablayan.

How to get to Sablayan:

By Air. The fastest and more convenient way to get to Sablayan is by air. Local airlines like Cebu Pacific, Pal Express and Zest Air has daily 45-min flights from Manila to San Jose. Then, two to three-hour travel by bus or van to Sablayan. Small chartered planes could also land directly to Sablayan Airport or Mamburao Airport. Mamburao is about two-hours drive to Sablayan.

By Sea. Take a RO-RO ride from Batangas Port to Abra de Ilog Port then three-hour land trip to Sablayan. Another option if you will be coming from Manila is to take an airconditioned bus to Sablayan (via RO-RO ferries) which takes about eight hour.

Once in Sablayan, trikes are available if you want to tour around the town.

Contacts:

Municipal Tourism Office

Buenavista, Sablayan, Mindoro Occidental 5104

Website: www.sablayan.net

Email: amazingsablayan@yahoo.com

Contact numbers: 0929-428-0431, 0915-995-3895

Landline: (043) 458-0028

San Jose Airport

It's Christmas! I just want to say "Thank You" to all of you who've been sharing with me this small space in the world wide web. You are all awesome! May you and your family have a wonderful time today!

And of course, 2013 is just around the corner! Have a happy new year, too!

Cheers,

Che Gurrobat l www.backpackingpilipinas.com

A Letter to My Future Daughter

Tomorrow is my 29^th birthday, my child. I’ll have another candle to blow, another white hair to grow, and another year to look forward to. But before I get caught up too excited with next year, I’ll look back at how this year had been. In retrospect – following the series of fortuitous events that happened to me —I’m just glad to have survived 2012.

Times may have greatly changed as you’re reading this letter. Realities may be different. But for now, I’d like you to know how I have walked through everything that life had thrown at my direction in the past 363 days. I’ll share with you some important lessons I’ve bitterly and sweetly learned this year.

Lesson 1: People change, and that life is impermanent.

It was initially very difficult for me to embrace this reality, and it took a while before I chose to creep into the dark room of acceptance. But the enlightenment was worth all the agonizing fight. You see, the man I've once loved was brave enough to break our long relationship off. And as it usually turns out in this tragicomic world, he changed – his priorities shifted and he dreamt of a future without me. It’s not that he is a terrible person. Believe me, he is a good man. But he is, just like the rest of us, a normal flawed and imperfect human being. Despite all the hurt, I want us both to have a happy ending – even if it means getting there separately.

Lesson 2: If there’s one thing travelers are good at... it’s the art of moving on.

2012 is one amazing travel year! I stepped into three countries and visited 23 provinces. I had countless plane, boats, bus, jeepney, habal-habal, and trike rides. I witnessed numerous sunsets and sunrises. I met and talked to many interesting people while on the road. I visited temples, churches and other religious sites. I’ve seen white, black and even pink sand beaches! I've spent a day volunteering for some underprivileged kids. I had amazing encounters with whale sharks, sea turtles, manta rays, a shark, and many beautiful underwater creatures! I survived the most notorious province in the country! I traveled solo for the very first time! I fell in love with surfing and diving! And the list goes on forever...

A round-up of my favorite travel moments in 2012

So you might be wondering why even though my life was steadily heading southville, I still managed to make myself mobile? It’s because I need to. I have to admit it got me financially depleted (and my work was left in limbo) especially that most of the trips were unplanned and spontaneous, but I thought travelling kept my life in equilibrium. It lessened the impact of the crazily swinging pendulum. It made me look forward to day 1 of every trip. During the times when I’ve lost my appetite to almost everything, travelling was the only pulsating force that throbbed deep in my heart –pushing me to move forward and move on. And travelling did wonders. I moved on ahead of schedule.

Lesson 3: Always keep yourself in the company of good music.

Music is everywhere -- inside my room, in my workplace, while waiting in the airport, while aboard a fast craft in the middle of a wild sea, in a bus while on long night trip, and while catching a magnificent sunset beside a beach. Music needs no space and time. It travels with me.

Music is a beautiful art that heals. Its dynamics - the beats, harmony, the lyrics, and melody -became my daily source of happiness. Music wakes me up in the morning, teaches me to push forward, allows me to let go, makes me appreciate the tiny beautiful things around, and more than anything, it allows me to breathe through life's challenges and promises. It urges me to just live, and to live no matter how bad life gets sometimes.

My current playlist is a smorgasbord of everything which includes songs from Up Dharma Down, The Beatles, Lisa Hannigan, The Weepies, Nirvana, Norah Jones, M.Ward, Damien Rice, Nina Simone, Gary Granada, Coldplay, Jason Mraz, Enya, U2, Rascal Flatts, Noel Cabangon, Gus Teja, Passenger, and Michael Buble.

Lesson 4: Be kind to everyone.

Many people we meet on the street are hard-pressed with their lives – a mother struggling to make both ends meet for her family, a man who had just been fired at work, an old lady fighting breast cancer, a child being bullied at school, a woman having difficulty hiding her sexual preference to her family. Everyone is fighting his or her own individual battle. There are some who are good at hiding their own scars and wounds. And the best to do is to not add further hurt to their already grieving lives. Compassion and kindness are two things our world need nowadays.

Lesson 5: Be grateful... always.

Thank you... these are the two words I oftentimes say these days. After all I've been through this year – the extreme lows and the blissful highs—there is nothing but gratitude in my heart. Thank you to my family who stayed with me all throughout. Thank you to my friends who didn’t mind having a second cup of coffee just to listen to my repetitive and elaborate pains. Thank you to some special people who make me smile these days. Thank you to my bosses and workmates for patiently dealing with me eight hours on weekdays. Thank you for the kindness of the many random people I meet while travelling. Thank you, God. Thank you, kind and beautiful universe.

This is by far my most challenging year yet, but I reckon it also has been the year that had taught me so much about life. And these are the lessons I will carry on for a long time. These are the same lessons I will share with you in the future.

After all the torrential rainfall this year, I could only wish for plentiful of sunshine this coming 2013.

Lots of love,

Your future mom

This post is my entry to Pinoy Travel Bloggers' Blog Carnival for December 2012. With the theme "2012: This Year in Travel," this blog carnival is hosted by Gay Mitra-Emami of Pinay Travel Junkie and Regine Camille Garcia of Between Coordinates.

Visit Estan Cabigas' Langyaw.com to see the archive of Pinoy Travel Bloggers' Blog Carnival! :)

FACE of BOOKSAIL.Ralph Christian Delvalle Zape, 1st place winner in the Division Kindergarten Festival of Talents held last December 16, 2012 in Catanduanes. He bested 17 other contestants! And he's from Palumbanes Elementary School, the recipient of the first book drive of BookSail. Photo by: Ezra Efondo

Ralph Christian, 6, held the book tightly in his hand. In that cramped and poorly ventilated room filled with excited bunch of grade 1 pupils, his tiny voice, reading in rhythmic patterns, was going through the pages of "Ang Alamat ng Lansones." He was unmindful of the tiny other voices trying to rival that of his. He was pensively reading, that with a total youthful intent.

I happened to be in that classroom with Raph Christian, too. Along with seven other volunteers -- who came mostly from Manila -- we were all ears at his reading.

It was a special day for him and the rest of the kids and teachers in Palumbanes Island Elementary School. The books they have been waiting for months has finally arrived. Although it was a Saturday, the attendance in the school was swell. We could see the eagerness in the eyes of the kids. And the whole BookSail volunteers were as enthusiastic as they were.

After months of collecting the books and school supplies, BookSail is finally in Palumbanes Island, Caramoran, Catanduanes, last June 21.

It's my pleasure to announce that each of the 373 kids received a kit with pads/notebooks, pencils, crayons, sharpeners, eraser, story/coloring books, and ruler. The books and other reading materials were turned over and received by the school Head Teacher, Sir Yoy Sales.

In behalf of all the BookSail Volunteers, I'd like to express my heartfelt gratitude to everyone who supported this project. To all our donors, thank you!

I'm sharing with you all the highlights of this project -- the long road we took, literally and figuratively, to get the books sent to the kids of that small and remote island.

Volunteer Meet-Ups

Some of the best ideas about this big project were conceived during rounds of meet-ups with fellow volunteers. From discussing the project title, to brainstorming about the benefit dinner, to working out the collection process, and finally to sorting, packaging and shipping the books, the volunteers took time to attend despite their busy schedules.

I couldn't be more thankful to you guys - Eph, Angel, Kidd, Ajean, Jha, Kiko, Kay, Steph, Chris, Cha, Kate, Janet, Ren. Your brilliant ideas paved way to making this project a success. :)

Plates for Books - BookSail Launch

Last February, some 77 people attended Plates for Books, a benefit dinner for the schoolchildren of Palumbanes Elementary School. This was the first event held for our BookSail project in which we have succeeded in gathering a substantial amount of money that we used to purchase books for the kids.

Thank you to the awesome team of Mirage Manila for making the event possible!
Thanks to Nikko Quiogue for designing the first BookSail poster.
Many thanks to everyone who attended this event! :)

The Turn-over Event in Palumbanes Island

After more than 24 hours journey from Manila, we finally set foot in Palumbanes Island! This remote island is located at the northern part of Catanduanes, about 5 hours away from the province's capital town, Virac. From Manila, we had successions of bus, RORO, bus and banca rides before finally stepping in this island.

We met the kids the following day after we arrived. A short program was prepared in which we had games, read-along sessions, turn-over ceremony, distribution of the school supplies, and photo-op with each grade level.

Thanks to the teaching staff of Palumbanes Elementary School for the warm welcome. Special thanks goes to Rolando Gurrobat and Family, Tito Torres and Family, Jun Rodriguez and family!

Thank you for jumping in to the bandwagon, Eph, Angel, Kidd, Steph, Ajean, Ezra and Kay! Special thanks to Ayne Garcia. :)

Captivating Catanduanes - Beach Bumming at Bitaog Beach

BookSail is half literacy advocacy and half travel, half volunteerism and half adventure. It aims to promote meaningful travels in which participants get to enjoy a trip and at the same time leave positive footprints to the community -- especially from far-flung islands in the country

After the turn-over event, the group had the chance to experience a bit of island life as we headed to Bitaog Beach, Palumbanes Island. Beach bumming, snorkeling, boating were some on the itinerary! By the looks of the jumpshot below, everyone seemed to have fun. :)

Tour with Weekend in Bicol

We had the privilege to tour around to some of the beautiful spots in Catanduanes, thanks to our travel partner, Weekend in Bicol. My friend, May Olfindo, took us to Maribina Falls, Puraran Beach and Benticayan Hill. Thanks, Weekend in Bicol! We had so much fun! :)

Our Generous Donors

After we started blasting posts about this project through our Facebook page, an outpouring support came. From March to June, donations from many parts of Manila, other parts of the Philippines and as far as Japan trickled in. The donations were mostly from people and organizations, many of whom we have not met or known before.

Our donors (books, cash and supplies):

Mang Nanie Guanlao of Reading Club 2000
Catanduanes Cong. Cesar Vergara Sarmiento
Jennylee Villarosa of www.goobcases.com
U! Happy Events - Camille, Harvard
UPSCA
GMA-7 friends
Bicol University friends- Shiela, Sarah, Maricar et al.
Mitsuaki Satoh
Angel Pascual
Kidd Madarang
Ephraim Aguilar
Kay Miraflor-Antonio
Steph Quismorio
Ting Flores
Karen Lapitan
Kaladkarins - Janet, Beau
Babam Luzong
Jinkee Umali of www.livelifefullest.com
Rica Pampenico
Kim Gil
Melanie Valenciano Cabotaje
Ciel Estacio
Romalyn Casia
Ann Sarmiento
Ajean Tuazon
Ephraim Arriesgado of www.selflesstravels.com
Gie Buenafe
Marisa Pajudpod, Ms. Nancy and Hermann
Rowena Tatad
Glen, Chey, Hayden
Jossa Araojo, Cor Smith
Abi Sangalang
Rica Familara
Gayna Raghani
Mr. and Mrs. Eugene Tay
Kayla Pascual
Warren Chiong

BookSail Partners

BookSail project would have not been this successful without the support of our sponsors.

Cong. Cesar Sarmiento- for the cash and book donations. Thank you for your support, Cong!

Weekend in Bicol - for touring us around some of the best spots in Catanduanes. Do check out their site www.weekendinbicol.com for some very affordable tour rates around the most beautiful places in Bicol.

Catanduanes Midtown Inn - for the comfortable overnight accommodation during our stay in Virac.

For info and reservation:
Catanduanes Midtown Inn
Address: San Jose, Virac, Catanduanes
Contact No.: (052) 811-06-33/811-15-27
Website: www.catmidinn.com
Email: info@catmidinn.com

GoCatanduanes - for covering our turn-over event in Palumbanes Island. Thanks to Ezra Efondo for capturing the amazing moments during the distribution.

The most rewarding experience I had as I handed the brown envelop to the kids was when I saw the big bright smiles as soon as they peeked what's inside it. It just melted my heart to see these kids very eager to learn! It magnified the purpose of why we were there in the first place. And I thought it would be so nice to replicate the same experience on to another remote island, seeing happy smiles, again and again.

To everyone, once again, thank you!

See you all to the next island, next year! :)

Sending back happy thoughts,

Che B. Gurrobat
BookSail/Backpacking Pilipinas

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I could put blame to a lot of things. The grey sky. Too much caffeine. Heavy downpour. Cold nights. Depleted savings. Tired bones. Growing back blogs. Dusting books. Unwashed laundry. Blue August. Yeah maybe, I could put blame to a lot of things.

Because I'm introspective tonight, I'm letting out a very spontaneous blog quipped with my usual travel-life-is-good-oh-but-wait-haha ramblings. Pardon me.

So how have I been lately? Travel-wise, I'm excellent. I'm very close to completing my 80 before 30 goal -- the one sole impetus that keeps me going and excited lately. It drives me, it pushes me further. As of today, I'm only 5 provinces away from finishing the 80 provinces. And the road map to completing the challenge is clear and paved. There's nothing that could stop me now.

My road trips around the country have taught me so much. The fleeting and quick stops to some of the off-the-tourist trail roads have widen my perspectives about life in general -- how to brush off my personal biases and how to push harder when the going gets immensely tough. Yep, I reek with ugly biases like how I fear going to Mindanao. But I think that's what travelling does - to tear down the walls and blocks set up by common notion.

Travelling also makes me think of two things: death and marriage.

I have this weird idea that if I die while riding a ferry boat, what are the chances that I'd be found? Would I lie forever in the abyss --rotten and forgotten? I think of what purpose, if any, did my existence ever serve to humankind? Or would people even show up on my funeral? I'm not suicidal, or anything. I'm happily enjoying life -- embracing even its complexities and absurdities, -- but thoughts about death are real. It will happen to everyone. It's just a question of when or how. So while breathing, live. And not just exist.

I think about marriage, too. But this deserves an entirely new post.

My road trips are not entirely as picture-perfect as it may seem. Most of the times, it entails great sacrifices. Like having to take public transport -- being in a van with a poor legroom and busted air-conditioning , having to deal with the ordeal for a good 6 hours (plus the nightmare of seeing pesky crawling and biting insects). Or having to stay in a totally cramped motorboat alongside smelly poultry. Or to straddle in a butt-numbing ride aboard a habal-habal. Or having to brave a heavy downpour just to get a good photograph. It does gets into me sometimes. It gets to a point wherein I'd ask myself "what the hell am I doing all these for?" But then, I realize that if something that you want does not pain you, does not scare you, maybe it's not worth it. Keep going on every helluva ride. "Hang on there. Enjoy the ride.," I would tell myself.

And there's the financial downside, too. I'm a regular office employee who makes both ends meet through careful budgeting. I work really hard to afford these short vacations. But I'm not all too concerned about money, not that I'm rich or anything (not even an upper middle-class), I just want to live by the present. Traveling, of course, is not free. But I'm getting by.

Despite the hustle and bustle of my micro-trips, the rewards are often found at the end of the road. Most of my trips end up in beautiful beaches, with a magnificent sunset, a sumptuous gastronomical experiments, a cool mountain breeze, a perfectly wild waterfalls, and most importantly, with the kindness of the people I meet. These are all the precious memories I'll put in my treasure box as soon as I set foot in my 80th province.

I have to end here. I'm not feeling perfect tonight, but some other stuff are better discussed over a warm cup of coffee or a cold cold beer.

Hang on there. Good night.

White sand beach at Tiamban Beach Resort

I vividly recall decades ago, my sister, Cha, brought home some marble wares like dolphin, mortar and pestle and ashtray from Romblon. She had nothing much to say about her trip, but she made it quite known to us that true to what we learned from our Sibika At Kulturabooks in grade school, indeed, Romblon is the marble capital of the Philippines. I have imagined most of the houses there, at least, have marble fixtures in them. Since then— brought by too much curiosity about the place—Romblon had been on my list of “Places to Visit” in Luzon.

Maybe because it holds a special spot in my consciousness that I decided to make it the last province I’d visit in Luzon for my 80before30challenge. I wanted to hang on to the excitement of seeing what’s in there. Is there more to Romblon than just its vast marble reserves? I wondered.

I made a few research before actually going there. The internet had write-ups about Tablas Island and Carabao Island, but had not provided enough details about going to Romblon, Romblon, which was the destination I wanted to see. There were not so many blogs either, and sadly, the provincial tourism website didn't provide much help for DIY travelers like me. Maybe that’s what made me want to go there, even more. It was the excitement brought by the fact that it remains to be one of the most overlooked destinations in the country.

Last April, along with my friend, Anchi, I finally fulfilled a “childhood dream.” I made it to Romblon.

Our trip going there wasn't as easy as I have imagined it to be. It was a very loooong and arduous trip. From Manila, we boarded a bus going to Batangas Port. After two hours, we arrived at the port, and were quite lucky to have caught the last trip (5:00 pm) of the RORO bound for Romblon, Romblon. Since we booked late, we had to bear the agony of sharing a single bed in an open-air deck, in a sweltering mid-summer day. We also had to share the crowded deck with a handful of people endlessly buzzing, and some even playing OPMs in full volume, with songs like "O giliw ko miss na miss kita" perpetually playing. I could see everyone getting ready for what was to be a long night trip. I cannot complain, but I was seriously very worried for my travel companion.

Sleeping through the sweltering heat of summer

The RORO sailed off an hour late of schedule. As dusk fell that day, I could see from my bed the magnificent sunset making its way to the horizon. I marvel at how each sunset brings so much excitement especially when I’m on the road. I just feel that sunsets in the provinces are much more beautiful than sunsets in Manila. Maybe it’s the sun’s unobstructed view, the warmth it brings just before it sets, and the familiar cool breeze I feel once darkness embraces the surrounding.

Wonderful sunset as our boat leaves Batangas. Photo by Anchi.

As the boat waded past the island of Mindoro, Anchi and I decided to just spend the night in the open deck since both of us are finding it impossible to catch sleep. Finally after almost 10 hours, the boat docked in Romblon. We were greeted by morning peddlers. And our first breakfast in Romblon was a cup of coffee and two pieces each of “boknoy” (a local term they use for siopao).

From the port, we asked a trike driver for the best beach near the town (Fare: P 100). Kuya Richard, the driver, brought us to Tiamban Beach, located at Barangay Lonos, about 15 minutes away from the port. The resort has two available rooms for overnight stay and most of the cottages are for day trips only.

After having all our stuff settled, I immediately scored the shoreline. The beach was pristine and calm, especially so with the morning sun already aglow in the nearby hill. With the fine sand under my feet, it couldn't be more perfect than that.

After catching some rest, we contacted again Kuya Richard to tour us around. And because I had to satisfy my curiosity about Romblon’s marbles, I kindly asked him to bring us to one of the marble processing areas. They showed us how the huge chunks of marble rocks were turned to pieces we commonly see at home, like balusters and tiles. From what I gather, it looks like it has to go through a lot of process before it can be delivered right to our door steps.

After talking to the guys at the marble area, we were supposed to go to the marble mining site, but I begged off. I’d surely be brokenhearted to see the damage to the mountains brought by the mining activities. I had to pass up.

Kuya Richard informed us how the marble business in Romblon had significantly dwindled over the years. Although he said that the amount of marble mined in the mountains of Romblon is not depleting, he added “Nanganganak ang mga marmol dito,” it is the quality that’s being scrutinized in the market. They only get the consolation from mining the more precious green and century marble stones every now and then. With the competition posed by cheaper and finer stones like granite, ceramic and porcelain, the white marble of Romblon is seeing a bleak future.

Marble workers on the go

But there is one industry that has the potential to put this province to travelers’ map –tourism. I have yet to see a place with so many clear and white sand beaches which are stone’s throw away from the town proper. As we took the trike from the poblacion to our resort at Lonos, the beaches we saw make me want to stop and jump right in the clear blue waters. Check out Bonbon Beach! Escape enthusiasts will definitely enjoy the sight of these beaches as much as we did!

We spent the whole afternoon lounging in the beach. There were a few local and foreign tourists in sight, everyone seemingly enjoying the delightful afternoon while basking in the summer breeze and sunshine. It was a perfect beach day. We were also rewarded by a splendid sunset that day!

The following day, we woke up early to hear the Sunday mass and visit Sto Nino de Romblon at St. Joseph Cathedral. It gave me goose bumps hearing His story of being lost and found after 22 years, and finding His way back to the cathedral, in His very own home. Somehow, I felt an affinity to the Sto Nino. That after all this wandering, this travelling—no matter if I sometimes lose sight of my destination—there will always be a place waiting for my return, a place I call my home.

St. Joseph Cathedral

Image of Sto Nino de Romblon

My trip to Rombon was quick, but a beautiful one. No matter how difficult the journey may have been to get there, the amazing sights and the warm people we met there made the trip memorable.

I bought my mother a small souvenir vase made of marble. She brought it to our home in Catanduanes, and I’m already thinking it now stands alongside the ones Cha had from her trip to Rombon decades ago.

How to get to Romblon, Rombon:

Take a bus from Manila to Batangas Port, 2-3 hours
Pay P30/person Terminal Fee at Batangas Port
Get on board a RORO either M/V Grand Unity (Navios Shipping Lines) Or Montenegro Shipping lines.

Montenegro ShippingLines

Batangas Port to Romblon, Romblon

Schedule: Monday, Thursday Saturday – ETD 5PM

Fare

ECONOMY- Regular 619.00; Student 526.00; Senior 495.00; Children 310.00

MABUHAY- Regular 805.00; Student 684.00; Senior 644.00; Children 403.00

FIESTA- Regular 712.00; Student 605.00; Senior 570.00; Children 356.00

Romblon, Romblon to Batangas Port

Schedule: Tuesday, Friday, Sunday – 12NN

Fare:

ECONOMY- Regular 619.00; Student 526.00; Senior 495.00; Children 310.00

MABUHAY- Regular 805.00; Student 684.00; Senior 644.00; Children 403.00

FIESTA- Regular 712.00; Student 605.00; Senior 570.00; Children 356.00

M/V Grand Unity

Batangas Port to Romblon, Romblon

Schedule: Tuesday, Friday, ETD 5PM - ETA 3AM

Romblon, Romblon to Batangas Port

Schedule: Wednesday, Saturday ETD 4PM - ETA 2AM

Fare:

ECONOMY- Regular 900.00; Student 765.00; Senior 720.00; Children 450.00

DELUXE- Regular 1,050.00; Senior 840.00, Children 525.00

CABIN- Regular 1,250.00; Senior 1,000.00; Children625.00

Old houses in Romblon

Romblon Quickfacts*:

The province of Romblon is approximately 346 km south of Manila.
It is composed of three major islands: Romblon, where the capital city of Romblon is located, Tablas, the largest island in the province, and Sibuyan, the easternmost island. There are also four smaller island municipalities: Banton Island, Simara Island, Maestro de Campo Island, and Carabao Island.
Three distinct native languages spoken by the people in Romblon: Romblomanon or Ini, Bantoanon or Asi, and Inunhan or Onhan, which are classified as Visayan. Tagalog and English are also used and understood.
Other tourist activities: hiking Mount Guiting-Guiting in Sibuyan; visit the beaches in Carabao Island and Cresta del Gallo; diving in Concepcion

*From Wikipedia

The provincial capitol building

This is what welcomes visitors, located near the port

A sneak peek of the town as seen from the boat

Boys shooting for coins from the RORO passengers

*Many thanks to Anchi for the company. :)

Kindness on the road. With Auntie Rose and Auntie Cubic

I was already feeling sore after missing the boat going to San Jose in Dinagat Islands. At 11:30 am, I haven't had my breakfast yet and my body's a bit fatigue after a painful van ride from Butuan City to Surigao City. The scorching heat that day was taking its toll on me and I was growing impatient walking in that crowded boulevard while asking random people for the next boat going to Dinagat. I was on a solo trip, and I was feeling all the more alone at that very moment.

Until I got a tip that a boat was leaving at 12 nn. I rushed to the docking area, and sure enough people were crowding up to the ticket line. I saw a rainbow somewhere.

The lady next to me asked where I was heading to. She was surprised when I told her that I'm on a solo trip to Dinagat Islands and that I have no one to meet or stay there. Thinking that Dinagat is not among the country's known traveler's trail, she called me courageous.

We got in the boat together. We were led to second level, close to the boat captain's pit. We were seated much comfortably there and I reckon the situation in the first level was a bit rowdy.

I noticed that almost everyone in the boat seems to know her, and everyone calls her Auntie. It was along the course of our conversations did I know that the lady I was seated with was someone known in Dinagat. She is a retired judge, the well-respected Auntie Cubic.

After almost two hours boat ride, we finally reached the town of Dinagat. We walked a few distance from the wharf and reached Auntie's place. Living with her equally kind sister, Auntie Rose, their house towers in that poor village. But unlike the flamboyant palaces of the Ecleo's, theirs was a simple bungalow house. I was delighted to have been invited to stay overnight. And given that there's not many hotels in Dinagat, the invitation came as a great luck. That night, I slept peacefully in a modest room with clean and crisp bed linen.

The best thing I remember about staying in their house was how lively the conversations were in the dining table. In between delightful meals and cups of coffee, I've learned a lot about the situation in their province, their hopes and dreams for their people. I had the opportunity to see the other towns of Dinagat, and witnessed the deplorable situation of the province. I learned that not more than 10% of the roads there are well-paved and education is not given much attention. In a place where the faith of many people revolves around a "Master" whose currently at large and is hunted for murder, and whose family also takes on the center stage in politics, like Auntie Cubic and Auntie Rose, the only thing its residents could hope for a positive change to finally come in their poor province.

It also brings comfort to listen to the wisdom of two ladies who had a lot to share to a confused wandering 29-year old woman like me. One of the rewards of travelling is meeting random people whose kindness and openness strikes you to the core. And at the end of the journey, you realize that no amount would be enough to repay other than that of paying forward to other people you meet the same kindness that was accorded to you.

I left Dinagat Island the following day. Sad as it was to leave the two ladies behind, I told them that hopefully, someday, I'd be able to visit then again. I'll miss them both.

The wisp of the cold breeze did not escape me the moment the non-airconditioned van trailed the well-paved and uphill road dotted with nipa houses, corn plantation and forested hills. I was enjoying the green scenery outside my window, and as soon as the sight of the lake came to view, my excitement started to swell. I instantly knew we have finally reached our destination -- the dreamy town of Lake Sebu.

The verdant mountains mirrored in the calm waters of Lake Sebu

We were dropped off at the poblacion where a number of habal-habal drivers wait for passengers. In that early Friday morning of August, it seemed like Anchi and I were the only tourists amidst the busy mass of people going about with their daily grind-- children in their school uniform, brimming commuters and some busy vendors.

As we were taking the roads from the town proper to Punta Isla Lake Resort, we passed by some stands selling tilapia, a common agricultural product from the lake. There are also a number of guesthouses and resorts near the lake and most serve food, mainly fried fish.

Breakfast Menu: T'boli Coffee, Egg Omelet, Chicharon Tilapia

I was not surprised when the food served to us for brunch was Punta Isla's specialty, chicharon tilapia. They also serve other tilapia delicacies - pinaputok na tilapia, tilapia rebusado, kinilaw na tilapia, tilapora, nilasing na tilapia, tilapia foyong and daing na tilapia. It was a breakfast al fresco as we sipped a cup of warm T'boli coffee while enjoying the crisp and cold air, the view of the lake, and the sound of a traditional T'boli music playing in the background. I must add that Punta Isla's beautiful gardens-- with colorful flowers in full bloom-- and their helpful staff add to the relaxing ambiance of the resort.

Known as the "Summer Capital of Southern Philippines," Lake Sebu is fast becoming a staple in the list of must-visit places in Mindanao. I feel its strong semblance to its counterpart in Northern Luzon, the town of Sagada in Mountain Province. Both places offer action-filled adventures (breathtaking waterfalls), quiet and relaxing close-to-nature feel (lakes), and the fascinating cultural encounter with a local tribe (T'boli in Lake Sebu and Igorot in Sagada.)

T'boli is one of the most visually fascinating tribes in the Philippines, famous for their colorful clothing and intricate bead work designs

Lake Sebu is home to three lakes: Lake Lahit (24 Hectars), Lake Seloton (48 Hectars) and Lake Sebu (380 Hectars).These lakes are picture-perfect especially when engulfed in the morning mists with lilies carpeting the calm water, and T'boli houses and lush mountains in the background. We were told that the local government only allows floating pens and boat tours for tourists in the wider lake, leaving the other two barely touched.

As I sat watching the morning slowly glide in Lake Sebu, I realize how peaceful the place is compared to the media-hyped war and conflict in some areas Mindanao. And while it's true that there are some very volatile areas in this region, there is as much beauty that remains, waiting to be explored, to be seen.

Because I liked this place so much, I decided to do separate blog posts for my encounter with Lang Dulay, a renowned national living treasure, T’nalak or Tibolo cloth weaver and my Seven Falls ziplining experience. Stay tuned...

How to get there:

From General Santos City, get on a Yellow Bus Liner bus going to Koronadal City (Marbel), travel time takes about 45 mins to 1 hour.

From Koronadal City, take the Yellow Bus Liner bus going to Surallah, 45 minutes travel time.

From Surallah Integrated Bus Terminal, take a van going straight to Lake Sebu. Travel time: 30 minutes.

Alternately, there's a van plying directly from Koronadal City to Lake Sebu.

Once in Lake Sebu, you may hire a habal-habal going to your desired destination, P10 per passenger. The rate for day tours, including Seven Falls and a visit to Lang Dulay's weaving school, costs P300.

Once you get off at Surallah, you'll see these interesting landmarks near the Municipal Hall. The larger than life-size statues depict the lives of the tri-people of Mindanao (Lumads, Christians and Muslims)

It was a day before her 89th birthday. The mood in that sunlit and simple long hut was far from festive. There were only faint conversations in the vernacular T'boli being translated to us by her granddaughters because she could not speak Tagalog. Sitting comfortably in that old rattan chair, she looked every inch a master. Donned in a beautiful T'boli costume, which is by the way her usual attire with or without visitors, I felt very honored to be in the presence of this amazing woman, the legendary dream weaver, Lang Dulay.

Me with Lang Dulay at her weaving school in Lake Sebu

A recipient of Gawad sa Manlilikha sa Bayan Award and declared a National Living Treasure by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA) in 1998, Lang Dulay was recognized for her excellent craftsmanship in weaving the prized T'nalak or the traditional T'boli cloth.

Lang Dulay at the "office"

She is the master weaver who's keen at guarding and passing down the craft to the future generation of the T'boli people. She established the School of Living Traditions (SLT) close to her house in Sitio Tukolefa, Lamdalag, Lake Sebu in South Cotabato. Her students are mostly her granddaughters and relatives. Although most of the geometrical patterns have been derived from Lang Dulay's own dreams, thus literally called a dream weaver, equally intricate and impressive designs are also being produced by her students.

Learning the trick of the trade from her mother since she was 12 years old, Lang Dulay had to stop weaving these days due to health issues. However, her daily presence in the weaving center to assist the students with the design and production of T'nalak is a statement that she wants to continue the sacred tradition to her lineage.

In that small hut standing on a stilt about 6 feet high, the students are taught the long and arduous process of producing a T'nalak cloth. Devoid of chairs and blackboards often seen in a regular classroom setting, students are seen seated on the floor, in their own nook engaged in their works, trying to master the age-old art of weaving.

Ironing the cloth is the final step in making T'nalak (left) and a T'boli woman working on her piece (right)

A single finely woven T'nalak, 3 to 5 meters long takes about 3-4 months to make. The long process starts with stripping off fibers from abaca trees. These fibers are kneaded, dried, combed, measured, and cut before the actual weaving is done. The colors are achieved by dying the abaca fibers using roots from Loko tree (red dye) and leaves from Kanalum tree (black dye). The finishing touches, which they call "ironing", are done by repeatedly pounding and rolling a big shell on the cloth. This I think is the secret to its very fine texture.

Knowing how much work was put on in making the cloth, I didn't mind paying P1,500 for a 3-meter T'nalak which is now one of my favorite souvenirs from a trip. Authentic, exquisite, and with the traditional mark of a national artist, I even think that taking it home is quite a steal!

*The only thing we were told when we bought the piece was to bite the edge of the cloth if we were to cut it. This is to avoid bad luck or sickness.*

The T'boli tribe has had a long history of weaving and textile work. They've had it for ages and there is an inevitable pressure especially among the T'boli youth to continue the tradition going. At present, there are a number of weavers like Lang Dulay in the tribe and the methods they employ remain unchanged in centuries. The skills and unique rendition of patterns are handed down within each family.

The future of T'nalak weaving is in the hands of the younger T'boli generation

As Anchi and I bade goodbye to Lang Dulay and her students, I was gripped with hope that the tradition of making T'nalak will live on forever. In this modern age where everything is manufactured easily, the idea of still putting too much effort making a single cloth is beyond me.

Ultimately, I find it heartwarming that in that native T'boli hut in Lake Sebu, the fibers are woven with love and dedication. And that to me is priceless.

For more details about Lake Sebu, check out my post: Mindanao Roundup (South Cotabato): Placid and Picturesque Lake Sebu

Don't we all want to travel once in a while? Whether we choose to scale a mountain, or go to the beach or learn history, there's always something that seduces us to traveling. For some it has become a way to escape a chaotic daily grind; some finds pleasure in exploring the off-beat paths; some for the simple reason of spending some precious downtime moments with love ones; some wants adventure; some wants to challenge their capacities; some wants to experience the culture and bring home lessons and experiences they will live by forever. For whatever reason you have, I think our innate desire to be mobile is the root of this bug called traveling.

When I started backpacking Pilipinas in 2009, my reasons were to simply run away from the city life every once in a while. But over time, when my travels increased from rarely to monthly, this whole backpacking trip has become more of a passion, something that I want to share to many who reads this blog.

After visiting 79 of the 81 provinces in the Philippines, I learned a lot of practicalities that I feel worthy to be shared to you. I hope this list will help and inspire those who wanted to travel but haven't started yet, and those who are already on the road.

1. Travel within your means. You should not rely on your credit cards that promise the "travel now, pay later" mentality. It is best if you have available funds that would actually finance your trips. Relying heavily on your plastics would cause more headache long after the trip is over. Lesson: Save up!

2. Be a poorpacker. I consider myself a poor tourist not really because I'm financially depleted but because I find some work-around in my budget to accommodate my micro-vacations. I wait for budget airlines seat sales, I sleep in cheap accommodations, I do DIYs instead of hiring a tour guide, and I walk a lot. I prefer to go low on accommodation and allot most of my funds on food and tour.

3. Visit a museum. I notice that not so many people I know are fond of museums, and I think they are missing out on a wealth of information because of this. My museum visits around the country taught me a lot about our rich history, culture, and traditions that are often not seen in our textbooks or taught inside our classrooms. Some of my favorite museums are in Batanes, Zamboanga City, Dumaguete City, Marinduque, Dapitan City, Marawi City and Manila.

4. Visit a church, temple, or a mosque. Our country has countless magnificent and historical churches that are worth visiting. Not only do I find my peace and quiet in these churches, I also feast my eyes with intricate designs and elaborate architectures, especially the old ones. It's not surprising that four of our baroque churches made it to the list of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites -- Church of San Agustín in Paoay, Ilocos Norte; Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion in Sta Maria, Ilocos Sur; The Church of the Immaculate Conception of San Agustin in Intramuros; and Church of Santo Tomas de Villanueva in Miagao, Iloilo.

5. Support local products and haggle responsibly. Go to the public market if you want to buy the best locally-produced souvenirs (Ex: Pili nuts, sarong). Visit the local industry like the pots made in Ilocos or Tiwi in Albay, weaving center in Sagada or Benguet, the strawberry farm in La Trinidad, Benguet. One of my favorite travel souvenirs is a T'nalak cloth I bought when I visited the T'boli weaving school of National Artist Lang Dulay, at Lake Sebu, South Cotabato. Seeing the effort put on in producing a single cloth made me realize how important that piece is, and I try not to haggle when I know that the product is their only source of income.

6. Talk to people. Everyone has a story to tell, and most of the time the stories of the people you meet on the road are inspiring and lingers on for a long time. Engage in conversations with the person beside you in a bus, your tour guide, the peddler selling souvenirs, and others. For solo travelers like me, engaging in deep conversations with the locals give me some perks like a free overnight stay and a free cup of coffee. They also tell the back story of each place, like how I was told about the black sand mining in Cagayan Valley, or how the local people in Palaui Island opposes the project to build a concrete road in their small island, or the inside stories of the "kingdom" at Dinagat Islands, or the senator involved in illegal logging in Cagayan, Samar and Surigao del Sur (hint??!!! PDAF).

7. Learn the vernacular. Say "mabalos" instead of "thank you" if you happen to be in Catanduanes. Tell a pretty lady "magayon ka" and you'll surely be rewarded with a sweet smile in Bicol.

8. Go out at night and visit the town plaza or boulevard. Especially on weekends, some plazas in the province have gatherings worth checking out. Try scoring for some watering holes around the place. Just stay safe and go home before 12 midnight as most houses in remote areas are already lights off by that time.

9. Dress aptly. Especially when visiting the churches, it's better to avoid short shorts and flashy tees. While the Philippines is a tropical country, thus, wearing airy outfits is warranted, as travelers we should still be sensitive to the local customs. This is valid especially in Mindanao wherein it is advisable wearing modest clothes when going to the Muslim communities like in Marawi City. Save your skimpy outfits to your beach trips!

10. Eat local dishes. Our country has a myriad of dishes that varies in each province/region. One of the things that allows me to experience each place very well is by digging on their foods. I have sampled the variations of "pansit" from Cagayan, Isabela, Catanduanes, and Quezon. I've also learned how people from Visayas and Mindanao go crazy over grilled (inasal) chicken. I love halo-halo and lechon! I just loooove our fooods!

11. Observe traditions. I remember how upsetting it was when I talked to Lola Ida, owner of House of Dakay, one of the oldest stone houses in Batanes. She shared how some tourists would just enter her house without asking for permission and without leaving their footwear in the front door. Shame on those disrespectful tourists.

12. Take the local transport. It definitely adds thrill to the experience to go out and hit the road or the sea aboard a local transport. I still fondly remember riding atop a jeepney in Sorsogon, the crazy ride on falowa boats in Batanes, the colorful motorelas in CDO, and the fast and furious habal-habal ride at Bislig City.

13. Draft an itinerary, but be spontaneous. I learned how important planning is since all of my trips recently are DIYs. Although not a very structured one, my itinerary is a hodgepodge of places I want to see, how I could get there, rates for the local transport, list of hotels in the area, what to bring and what not to bring. It's also advisable to not rely solely to your original plan, making Plan B helps. Lesson: Always make a good research of the place you are about to visit.

14. Pack light but don't miss out the essential. I've been using a Northface backpack for years and it holds all the things I need to survive a trip -- clothes, camera, phone, chargers, slippers, book/notebook, water, hat, umbrella, foods.

15. Safe travels. If traveling in areas with high security threat (like Zamboanga City or Basilan), I strongly suggest you ask help of a local guide. Stay informed and know the situation before pushing the trip. Stay safe!

16. Seek help. Better if you could contact the tourism office in the area. They know the place better and could provide helpful tips on where to go and what places to avoid. Most often, they also provide maps which could come handy while exploring the place.

17. Be kind and friendly. I notice that many people tend to be friendlier and kinder when traveling. Many friendships are developed when on the road because people seem to be smiling very often, too. ^_^

18. Be courteous. When talking to people, it helps if you tag along the good-old words and phrases "po" "opo" "thank you" and "please" wherever you go.

19. Keep a travel journal. While photos are good mementos, writing or blogging about your trip is a great way to relive the experiences you had. Taking blogging to higher purpose, it may help others who are also in the look-out for information about places they want to visit. The internet is an amazing marketplace to share away experiences, and we all benefit from it.

20. Take photos but make sure you enjoy the view without the lens. When we travel, we tend to be very overwhelmed by the beauty of nature and very often we spend too much time taking photos rather than enjoying the view in its raw and unfiltered form. Especially when witnessing a beautiful sunset, I usually just allow the whole scene pass without taking photos and leaving the experience processed in my own memory.

21. Enjoy the lean season. We usually think that it's best to travel during the summer season.. But alongside traveling with sunshine, you also meet a heavy influx of tourists especially in touristy areas like Boracay or Palawan. Why not try booking your flights during lean season and enjoy the same scenic view sans the noisy crowd?

22. Check within your borders. There are a few great places you might be missing out near your area. Without crippling your finances and to save you an expensive air fare, try looking for places to explore closer to home. Example: Here are some places to go near Manila.

23. Leave a low carbon footprint. One of the things I realized while exploring the Philippines is how blessed and beautiful our country is. And we all have the responsibility to keep or preserve our nature for the future generation's sake. We can do some simple eco-friendly practices while on a trip. Examples: Turn off the aircon and lights when leaving your hotel, walk if going to a place nearby, bring a trash bag and avoid littering especially our beaches.

24. Travel with purpose. Find what the local community needs and take actions in your own little ways. Traveling is a great teacher, and it allows us to see things in a different perspective. The issues on poverty and literacy are two things that I get to see firsthand from my travels around the country. And this propelled me to start my own advocacy. With BookSail, we aim to bring books to some remote islands in the country. :)

25. Don't be a stranger in your own country. Go backpacking Pilipinas! :)

The Ilocos provinces are two of my favorites in the country. Both are like one-stop destinations for tourists who are hunting for historical landmarks and heritage churches, or looking for beaches with amazing sunsets, or those chasing waterfalls, and beautiful natural and man-made structures.

Ilocos is a wonderland that had consistently amazed me during my last four visits. I feel almost apologetic that I've overlooked blogging about it in the past years. Given its many notable attractions, Ilocos rightfully deserves a spot in Backpacking Pilipinas.

This post will focus on the gems of Ilocos Norte, the other half of the Ilocos provinces. I'll be sharing some of my personal favorite attractions to give you an idea of what to see and expect on your next trip to the north.

Here are the top spots you may check out while in Ilocos Norte:

Bangui Windmills- Also known as the Bangui Wind Farm, these 20 giant wind turbines that stretch along the coastal town of Bangui is worth a visit. The first in the Philippines and considered the biggest in Southeast Asia, I like how this renewable energy wind farm provides electricity to Bangui. These turbines are visible even in the coasts of Pagudpud, but nothing beats getting near them up close.

I highly recommend going there during the sunset as the sea breeze gets colder and the windmills provide a perfect backdrop that's great for photography.

How to get there:

Take the Laoag to Cagayan route, then ask the bus driver to drop you off at Burgos. Check the marker on the left side of the road that leading to the Bangui Bay. From there you could already see the windmills. Follow the road leading to the bay which leads straight to the windmills.

Travel time from Laoag to Bangui is approximately 1.5 hours.

Fare:
Laoag – Bangui BUS: P50.00
Tricycle within Bangui: P20.00 – P30.00

Kapurpurawan Rock Formation - Breathtaking! That's how I find this amazing natural attraction off the coast of Burgos. This immaculate white rock formation fronting the wild waves of the sea is a geological wonder like the Biri Rock in Norther Samar. Cha and I had the wonderful experience of getting into the rock and seeing it up close back in 2009. Unfortunately today, I heard that a part of the rock has been closed to the public due to vandalism. :(

How to get there:

From the jump-off point at the main road in Burgos, it's about 15-20 minutes walk along a stretch of slippery rocks near the sea. Be extra careful! I highly recommend you wear a comfy footwear and bring umbrella or cap.

Laoag – Burgos
BUS: P50.00
TRICYCLE - within Burgos: Negotiable

Pagudpud beaches - Maira-ira and Polaris Resort are two of the beaches I visited during my stay in Pagudpud in 2009 and 2013. What I liked about the beaches in Pagudpud is the perfect sunset and that there's not too many tourists unlike other beaches in the country (well, at least during the times I was there). I have to warn you, though, to expect intense wind and waves especially at Maira-ira Beach even on a fairly good weather day.

How to get there:

From Laoag, you may take a bus bound for Cagayan. You also have the option to hire a trike going directly to Pagudpud. Travel time may take about 1.5 hours.

Laoag – Pagudpud
BUS: P60.00
TRICYCLE - within Pagudpud: P20.00

Patapat Viaduct - Another interesting man-made structure worth stepping into is this 1.3 KM long bridge going to Pagupud. It looks like a snaking concrete etched along a mountainside facing a sea. It provides an easy travel to those who are coming from Cagayan Valley to Ilocos Norte. I had visited it twice (back in 2009 and this year 2013) and did some snap shots while the motorists are out of sight. Not a difficult feat since it's not a very busy highway, but still a piece of advise -- watch out for vehicles behind you!

Enroute to Patapat Viaduct, Anchi and I passed by a place where he said that visitors can drink water from a miraculous stream. I don't recall the name but I remember there is an image of Mother Mary set near where the stream flows.

Laoag City - Before or after exploring the countryside, it's a must to check out the city proper of Laoag. Although a metropolitan already, it still hasn't lost much of its old charm as evidenced by some calesas parading the streets and some old stone houses still standing proud around the city.

I suggest you do a walking tour and visit the St. William Cathedral (a National Cultural Treasure), the Sinking Bell Tower (located near the church), experience the thrill in La Paz Sand Dunes, and fill in your buds with authentic Ilocano dishes (bagnet, longanisa) at Johny Moon Cafe!

Within Laoag
TRICYCLE: P11.00
CALESA: P15.00

Paoay Church (Church of Saint Augustine)- This is one of the most photographed religious sites in Ilocos Norte and said to be the most outstanding example of "Earthquake Baroque" church. I'm very privileged to have seen this historical church twice and still awed by its beauty each time. Besides being one of the four baroque churches included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Paoay Church also holds an important place in our history as its tower was used as an observation post by the katipuneros during the revolution.

While in Paoay, check out what was then the vacation house of the Marcoses, the Malacanang of the North. I visited it back in high school and we were toured around the mansion where some stuff on display are antiques, canopy beds, paintings, and chandeliers. What I remember most from the trip was the calm and placid view of Paoay Lake from the mansion.

Laoag – Paoay
JEEPNEY: P33.00
TRICYCLE - within Paoay: P11.00

Cape Bojeador - Set high on Vigia de Nagparitan Hill in Burgos, Ilocos Norte, this lighthouse was erected in 1890 and was first lit on 1892. After 100 years, it still functions today as a guide to international ships entering the Philippines. The light marks the northwestern-most point of Luzon. This octagonal-shaped stone tower was part of the Spanish government's master plan of illuminating the Philippine archipelago. Over the years, restorations were made and its original lamp was replaced after it was damaged by the 1990 earthquake. Cape Bojeador Lighthouse was declared a National Historical Landmark on August 13, 2004 and a National Cultural Treasure on June 20, 2005 by the Philippine Government.

Aside from the historical significance, what I like most about this lighthouse is the refreshing view of the mountains and sea it offers to travelers. I also enjoyed taking photos of its architectural details like the rusty spiral stairway and the bricked walls.

Laoag – Burgos
BUS: P50.00
TRICYCLE - within Burgos: Negotiable

Kaibigan Falls - Another must-visit place is the refreshing Kabigan Falls located at Barangay Baloi in Pagudpud.

It's about 1.8 km away from from the main road and can be reached on foot. We had to hike for about 30-40 minutes along a dirt road where we passed by a couple of streams, verdant forest and rice fields before we reached this cascade. Bring some cash as you may pass by locals selling buko juice. :)

Even on DIY, I still suggest you ask help from a local guide. The local officials there are very organized and are helpful to tourists, just make sure to log in to the visitors' book and pay corresponding fees before going to the falls.

Museo Ilocos Norte - To take a quick look and experience a bit of Ilocos life, head on to this museum. I like the interactive displays depicting the rich culture and history of the people of Ilocos. I got a glimpse of the Ilocano artistry through the pots they make, learned about the Tobacco monopoly industry, and the simple life of the Ilocanos.

Address: Gen. Luna corner Llanes Streets, Laoag City
Telephone: (077) 770-4587
http:www.museoilocosnorte.com

How to get to Ilocos Norte:

For those coming from Manila, the easiest way to get there is by taking a 45-minute flight to Laoag City via domestic airlines Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific, Air Phil, and Zest Air.

Those who opt a land travel will have to brave an 8-hour long bus ride. To fight off boredom, morning trips in northern Luzon has very scenic roadside views of the countryside which you may also enjoy. :) Some of the buses that ply the Manila-Laoag-Manila route are Farinas, Florida, Partas, and RCJ.

Once in Laoag, you may explore the city on foot, or by riding the calesa. Trikes, jeepneys and buses are also available for short and long rides especially to tourist destinations mostly located in nearby towns.

Source: www.ilocosnorte.gov.ph

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